Hopeless and Hope

Mount Hopeless in the foreground of this early summer view of the Travers range

Its been 6 months today since I broke my leg and over 7 months since returning from China. It’s hard to say which event has had more effect on me in the last 7 months although perhaps they are one and the same. Throughout so many years in the past travelling I always found the hardest thing to do was to return - somehow your soul is somewhere else , your body back in New Zealand and the spirit flitting backwards and forwards , waiting restlessly for the next voyage. Finding meaning(fulness) in what one could term normality in the Western World is rather difficult for one like myself - far more easy for ones spirit to soar with the soul on the vast empty(of humans anyway) spaces of the High Plateau. One thing that has been meaningful has been recovering from breaking that leg - rather then been a negative its almost the most inspiring circumstance I could have been placed in. The first 3 months are the most exciting and for awhile progress is on an almost daily basis. When one is so involved in a single ambition - to recover its so easy to focus and get on with it and most else is pushed into the background.

As I lay in a hospital bed with a fractured tibia I set out a plan of action and the first goal on a path to recovery would be to climb Mt Hopeless within 3 months , the name alone giving inspiration! Hopeless for the hopeful! Along the way various other objectives were involved - just walking for a start and then my first trip up Mount Arthur which was a mission in itself as I had trouble balancing and going downhill. Just a few weeks later with friends helping I managed to get up a rather harder objective, Mount Chittenden - one of my favorite’s . Although I found it difficult especially the balance and descending the improvement in just 3 weeks from my first hike up Arthur was phenomenal. Also I knew that Hopeless , although a tough climb physically, it was no more demanding than Chittenden otherwise and it was to be just a mental game of pushing on regardless. Hopeless was a good trip and although I was still slow the climb was achieved a week inside 3 months so the first part of the recovery plan was over. Since then life has moved to normal activities , like a job and housework but physical recovery has been ongoing - largely due to lots of bike riding and a bit of tramping with my guiding work locally. Last weekend I went up Chittenden again with some friends and the difference was amazing - I could now run where just three and a half months ago I was only crawling. Time was perhaps more the essence here rather than ambition and training.

Now the soul is calling that its time and the spirit and body grow restless.

Kadin and I had already toyed with the idea of “Hopeless” in a day fast one day alpine trips being in vogue at the moment and the thought alone of the Travers valley twice in a day making it a formidable mental undertaking. So I hit Kadin up – no longer Hopeless in a day but rater over 2 days. We made it easy as possible for ourselves- bivvying high the night before at 1950m with the only weight concussions being a pair of crampons each.. Why we didn’t use these in perfect crampon conditions early Sunday morning is beyond me as I opted to follow a rock hopping Kadin to the top of the standard route. There’s no real difficulty in that but for the fact that this route lends itself admirably to the sport of “rock tossing” which we – Kadin in particular are leading exponents of- enough said. Daunted by the displays of high speed rock flying down cliffs and with the descent in view Kadin suggested we try the NW ridge as a descent route. Now, I was rather skeptical that this was an easy route that the guide book maintained but for once the guide book was correct and the horrors of the descent were confined to the lower slopes – sliding on tussock, lacerating ones hands on spear grass and crawling like a pig through dense bush.

Mount Chittenden - just short of 6 months. Beginning to run again.

Nathan DahlbergComment
Deja Vu on Friday the thirteenth

Above , kids Leo and Val visit me in hospital

Movement is the key

Indulging in a bit of lunacy I could put down it being Friday the 13th as the reason behind the breaking my leg, However its far more likely in this modern age to over think and over rationalize leading to the most moronic conclusions – one can formulate the reasoning but one can’t make out the sense of it all. In away its kind of Deja Vu , all laid up after a rather mundane accident as I was 31 years ago, rather fortunately a much smaller accident this time. Rather then lunacy or overthinking on why I slipped and hit my tibia or shin bone in such a fashion as to fracture it time would be better spent thinking of all those very close miss’s over the last 31 years , a hairsbreadth from the final breath in many instances – this was a case of been hit by a stray bullet in the leg after having dodged so many bullets aimed at the head. Two of the best reactions were friend Tony sayingI thought at least you had fallen on a mountain” and daughter Val’s comment “You must feel really stupid”!

Stupidity and mundaneness aside its sometimes good to go down - as long as it’s not too hard - just to remind one self that the universe is far bigger then one self or mere humanity and it’s incredible complexity means no matter what our prowess are the fate remains the same - we as humans ride that wild tiger of fate perhaps if we are talented or lucky enough controlling it very minutely and briefly during our wild ride through life.

Sleep and more sleep. i wouldn’t call it fatigue or tiredness - its just this wish to constantly snooze like a cat. I put it down to the bodies desire to recovery - rest in the form of sleep been the most abundant form of natural recovery. Some friends, more skeptical than myself put it down to me showing my own real ability to apply laziness to its fullest extent when I have that opportunity. In any case , the constant desire to sleep has made it far easier mentally to be laid up as the enthusiasm to get out there and do it has been low. It gets even lower when one attempts to walk around the block on crutch’s and one realizes just how incapacitated one is!

Recovery has been good though and now 6 weeks after the accident there is enough movement in the leg to ride the home trainer and do some exercises. 31 years ago the surgeon who did a rather remarkable job on fixing up my leg last words to me were - “I can fix it up but I can’t tell you anything about how to recover from an injury like this and I’m not sure anyone can but i know movement is the key” That is life itself in a nutshell - movement is the key!

above - My last trip before breaking my leg. The constant favorite in Nelson lakes Chittenden with Jake.

Above and below. All the time off gave me the opportunity of making better videos about the recent trip on the Tibetan plateau.

Alfee the cat takes me for a walk morning and night.

Nathan Dahlberg Comment
Roads and mountains in the The Kingdom of Nangchen

7 weeks in China Part one . the Cycling in the Kingdom of Nangchen.

China, the Middle Kingdom has throughout its history and is even today somewhere separate from the rest of the world. When your in China , your really in China and the rest of the world seems to cease to exist. China is a totally non cosmopolitan territory except for a very few isolated areas in a very few of the most major cities. Cosmopolitan for Chinese means visiting or living amongst one of the minority groups - some 55 officially amongst the 56 ethnic groups in China - the one other being Han Chinese. By far the largest of these non Han ethnic group’s by area despite only a very small population are the Tibetan's whose language in terms of area, spread and cultural impact is also one of the most significant languages in the world. Only about half that of the actual area of Tibet is in “political “Tibet , now a province of China. The rest is spread out in an a great cap over and around the political entity and almost all the whole of Tibet lies at altitudes of 3-4000 meters or more. Historically there were many small Kingdoms in Tibet and the Kingdom Of Nangchen in remote river valleys and mountains in the Kham on what are now the borders of Qinghai and Tibet was the longest lasting. The area has fascinating history and the people living here are the Khampa’s, a fiercely independent breed of Tibetans with their own dialect whom during their history have deemed no more to swear allegiance to Lhasa then bow to Beijing.

I don’t intend to bore the reader with more small talk though - one picture being worth a thousand words but as I selected these photos of 2 weeks of bicycles touring there, it only reconfirmed that this is indeed one of the loveliest places on earth.

Heading to Tana La

Tana Ri Mountain pass

Nathan DahlbergComment