A new Mosque in Sary Mogol ,beneath the Pamirs - religion has made a small comeback since Soviet times and almost all the Mosques and church's I saw were very recently built. However on the whole neither the Kirghiz or Russian's populating the country seemed particularly interested in religious activities. The Uzbek population on the other hand seemed more inclined to visible participation.

 Kyrgyzstan land of mountains

   Seemingly endless mountain ranges cross the country of almost every alpine variety. The greater ranges of the World are also represented with the Tien Shan that borders China to the North East and the Pamirs known colloquially as the roof of the World that border China and Tajikistan to the South east.  Both ranges have seven thousand meter peaks and the Tien Shan boasts both the beautiful Khan Tengri, one of the classic symmetrical peaks of the world and Pobeda peak one of the worlds more difficult major climbs. However the Pamirs are far more extensive as far as high peaks go and form a huge mountain wall between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Approaching them one see’s this icy white wall stretching from horizon to horizon.

Peak Lenin at 7140 meters is the highest point on that border wall and the dominant feature. Its easy to access , and has the reputation of being an easy major climb – it has a rather more sinister reputation of being one of the most dangerous , indeed in 1990 the worst mountaineering disaster in history  happened here on its slopes when 45 climbers died in an avalanche. That not withstanding hundreds , indeed thousands will attempt the climb every year especially as it has no peak fees.

I spent a week in the area around Lenin but found the crowds rather off putting - I expected some people up there but it was my first experience of mass's on the mountain rather than mountain mass's. Fortunately if one stayed away from the main route towards Lenin peak which acted like a human magnet one had the whole place to oneself. Given the extensive glaciation it was sometimes rather difficult to travel alone and a partner or two would have been nice. Eventually I ran out of food and headed back to Sary Mogol to continue visiting Kyrgyzstan by bike.

First view of the Pamirs was Peak Lenin from the top of the Taidyk pass (3600m)

Sary Mogol

Climbing a high point of 4100m above Lenin B/C to look into the range

The ease of acess is evident here , a vechile track runs right to the base of Putasestvanikov pass - the gap in the middle of the picture. This pass leads over to the Lenin glacier.

Peak 5120m from Lenin Advanced Base camp site - in fact the real base camp. I ended up climbing this peak 3 times by different routes, a straightforward walk with a rather loose ice cap on top.

Ice cream peak 4695m , this summit afforded beautiful views to water sheds both East (LeninGlacier) and West.

Dawn , the Temp at ABC was just above freezing so snow never settled.

Looking West from the summit 5120m

Looking South from summit 4695m

Northern view from 4695m

Lenin Glacier 

Lenin summit at dusk

trying to access most of the 5000/6000 meter peaks around the area proved too daunting for me alone over fragmenting glaciers

Looking north down the Lenin glacier

Favorite campsite was by these glacial pools.

all done, leaving Sary Mogol and heading back to Osh

The last views of the Pamirs were as I headed up Jiptick pass , an old Soviet jeep track , now trekking track .

Peak Lenin rises above  Tuplar Kul Lake at dawn

The Pamirs reflected

Peak 5120 in double

Great roads

but tough!

best campsites

Everywhere

cute kids

of all ages

and the odd snow man

Lots of rather big pass's

of varying difficulties

some rather hard!!

Lenin lives on 

 as well - 100 years since the revolution !!!

Alps in profusion

and alps

Endless Alpine mountyain chains

alps to climb

alps with large pass's

Alps with ice walls and glaciers

Alps besdide the road

and water , in ice

streams 

rivers

more rivers

and finally lakes

Carl finding himself on the map as we cross the Gouland downs on the Heaphy track.

Planning for six weeks of biking, hiking and mountaineering in a country you know nothing about is fun and interesting. Fortunately, I have a couple of friends who have been there - one of which is a Swedish adventurer who could be called the "dean" of velo mountaineering and Joe Cruz , Americain philosopher and mountain bike adventurer. Added to this is a large amount of material on the internet including detailed maps from the Soviet era and even a rough mountaineering guidebook online!! If I can learn a few Russian and local Kyrgyz phrases I am probably in a better position knowledge-wise than on most of my  past trips. 

 On the floor of the living room lies a large mound of gear - which I have to half before departure. Velo mountaineering demands frugality -almost the opposite of big expedition mountaineering - weight and volume when you carry everything yourself is absolutely critical if you want to move at all, so it becomes a matter of eliminating every superfluous item and making even quite some cuts on what you think is necessary and carrying only what you really need!! 

Finally a quick note in the photos below on those who sponsored me - in the past mainly but I am still using their product so let say they are withstanding the test of time.

The Kahurangi national park from Mt Perry, a quick stroll above Perry Saddle whilst riding the Heaphy track.

Part of the ride on the Heaphy was bike testing

, here is a 3/4 loaded Colossi on the climb to Perry Saddle. Jan Kole a Dutch Ex professional Bike racer makes these quality custom bikes and has sponsored me several over more than 10 years. This particular touring model has already seen 3 trips to Central Asia and just keeps on going - Custom designed steel fillet-brazed Collossi !!1

A pretty grainy picture but best I got on the day testing of the big super gaiters over my climbing boots sponsored by Forty Below. These are going to double up as shoe covers for long icy descents on cycling mountain pass's.

Ashley and Elliot explore one of the caves on Mount Arthur during a training trip

Going thru a Karst crevasse on Mount Arthur

Early winter on Winter peak

Finding snowy couliors for training

Elliot on Winter peak

Testing an older style Katamandu XT tent I bought to replace the sponsored one I lost to a glacier in Pakistan . The old XT is a light weight no frill version and so far in testing (here on the Perry saddle with the Colossi after a snowy and icy night) has proved very warm

Lastly but not least Andy MacDonald and Nathan Faavae continue to supply me with these excellent Absolute Wilderness freeze dried meals. Light weight and high calorie - perfect for the mountains.

Winter on the Arthur range.